How to cut a bevelled edge window mount using a Duo System
Initial
tips before starting:
1.
Mount Cutters should always be placed on a strong firm work
surface and be at a comfortable working height. If the System
is used on a bendy trestle table for example, the table will
flex as you cut and so the System will flex with it. The result
will be a bowed cut. 2. Place the System at right angles
in front of you – not across you. Your arm and shoulder should
line up with the cutting edge so that each cut is one smooth
movement of the upper body. Your position should be slightly
to one side of the System, not with the System in the middle
of your body. 3. Always work on the back of the
mountboard – whether marking out or cutting with either the
Vertical or Bevel Cutter. Always insert the mountboard underneath
the Guide Rail from the cutter side for each cut.
To Cut the Mountboard Sheet Down to Size
Set up the system on a firm work surface and remove
the Guide Rail. Take out the Cutter Stops, turn the Guide Rail over
and remove the Mount Stop by slackening the screw with the screwdriver
then unlock the cam. Now replace the Guide Rail and insert the sheet
of mountboard face down under the Guide Rail and up to the Squaring
Pins. Measure out the correct size using the tape measure. Remove
the Safety Guard and hook the Vertical Cutter onto the Guide Rail
and push away from you in one smooth action.
Be positive – don’t
hesitate, otherwise the blade may flex resulting
in a curve at the end
The blade is very sharp so always remember to replace the Safety
Guard after each cut
The groove in the Base accommodates the blade of the Vertical Cutter
as it cuts. It is only for use with the Vertical Cutter – not the
Bevel Cutter.
To Mark Out the Window Border
With the mountboard face down, mark out the window
border in pencil to provide a cutting guide. Set the measurement
of the Marker Gauge to the required width for the border and draw
four lines If you are cutting a dropped border (that is one where
the border at the bottom is wider than at the top and sides), you
will need to adjust the Marker Gauge to mark out the wider border.
Place the mountboard on the worksurface just over the edge and
keep the yellow block firmly up against the side of the mountboard
when drawing the line.
A hard pencil, say 4H, helps produce the fine lines needed for accurate
cutting.
To Cut The Bevel Window Aperture
The Bevel Cutter is used to produce the pleasing
angled cuts which are the feature of quality picture mounts.
Insert the Mount Stop into the back of the Guide Rail at a comfortable
cutting position, taking into account the size of the mount. Replace
the Guide Rail onto the Base. Place the SprintMat under the Guide
Rail and up to the Squaring Pins.
Using the SprintMat is essential when bevel cutting as the blade
must cut into a supportive substrate to achieve a clean, accurate
bevel cut
Insert the marked up mount to be cut on top of the SprintMat and
up to the Mount Stop. Align the pencil line with the cutting edge
of the Guide Rail.
Place the bevel cutter onto the Guide Rail and insert the two Cutter
Stops. Before
cutting, line up the centre of the V with the finish line and lock
the top stop; slide the
cutter back and line up the centre of the V with the start line
and lock the bottom stop.
The cutter stop is set by positioning the centre of the V on the
intersecting line and then locking it in position
Place one hand on the Guide Rail for your support. With the other
hand keep the Bevel Cutter held firmly up against the bottom stop,
place the palm so that it covers the top of the cutter and use the
heel to rotate the blade fully into the mountboard and then push
the cutter along to the other stop in one smooth action.
ensure the SprintMat always supports both the rail and cutter
Manually retract the blade fully and take the cutter off the Guide
Rail. The cutter stops of course remain set for the opposite long
side (if cutting a rectangle and for the other three sides if cutting
a square mount). Turn the mount around, check the pencil line against
the Guide Rail and repeat the cut. Reset the bottom stop and repeat
for the shorter sides if cutting a rectangular mount.
In just a few minutes you will have produced a professional quality
mount that will set off any photograph, painting or picture.
Helpful Hints when bevel cutting:
1. When bevel cutting
a cutting substrate is essential otherwise the mount’s surface
paper will tear leaving a ragged edge. The cutting substrate
for bevel cutting has in the past been a spare piece of mountboard
– used by default, not by design. Mountboard is not the solution
as the core is a random criss-cross of fibres which cause
drag, resistance and distortion when bevel cutting; its surface
is not flat so does not provide full support for the cutting
line. The specifically designed SprintMat has all its sfibres
in the same direction as the cutting line and its especially
laminated surface gives superb support - providing the perfect
substrate for the blade to cut into – makes for cleaner more
precise bevel edge windows with minimal effort. 2. Typically the blade depth is
approximately 3mm for standard thickness mountboard. However,
you may need to make adjustments for different thicknesses;
Conservation quality mountboard for example is slightly thicker.
If you are over or under-cutting the corners this indicates
the blade depth needs adjusting. For over-cutting (when a
cut is showing beyond the corner on the front) turn the blade
depth screw clockwise to reduce the cutting depth; for under-cutting
(corner not releasing) turn the screw anti-clockwise to increase
the cutting depth. 3. If you have a problem adjusting
the cutting depth, it is easier to start with the blade depth
set too shallow and then adjust it by very small increments
until the corner drops out perfectly. 4. To begin with, try an equal sided mount.
It is the mount that guides the eye into the action of the
image, so wide borders are usually more effective than narrow,
ribbon-like ones. 5. If the mount is to be fixed flat to the
wall, whether in a frame or not, make the border the same
width all around. But, if the picture is to be hung with a
hook, the picture will tilt slightly so increase the bottom
border width a little so that you overcome the illusion of
a shorter looking bottom border – this is known as a dropped
border.
Longridge Mountcutters are different
use one once and you'll wonder why all mountcutting systems aren't made
this way.
Longridge, Shetlands House, Northclose Road,
Bembridge, Isle of Wight, PO35 5XP England
Tel: +44 (0)1983 874121