Bevel mount cutting systems

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How to Cut a Bevelled Edge Window Mount using a Solo System

Initial tips before starting:

1. Mount Cutters should always be placed on a strong firm work surface and be at a comfortable working height. If the System is used on a bendy trestle table for example, the table will flex as you cut and so the System will flex with it. The result will be a bowed cut.
2. Place the System at right angles in front of you – not across you. Your arm and shoulder should line up with the scutting edge so that each cut is one smooth movement of the upper body. Your position should be slightly to one side of the System, not with the System in the middle of your body.
3. Always work on the back of the mountboard – whether marking out or cutting with either the Vertical or Bevel Cutter. Always insert the mountboard underneath the Guide Rail from the cutter side.

To Mark Out the Window Border

With the mountboard face down, mark out the window border in pencil to provide a cutting guide. Set the measurement of the Marker Gauge to the required width for the border and draw four lines If you are cutting a dropped border (that is one where the border at the bottom is wider than at the top and sides), you will need to adjust the Marker Gauge to mark out the wider border.

marker gauge
Place the mountboard on the worksurface just over the edge and keep the yellow block firmly up against the side of the mountboard when drawing the line


a hard pencil, say 4H, helps produce the fine lines
needed for accurate cutting

To Cut the Bevel Window Aperture

The Bevel Cutter is used to produce the pleasing angled cuts which are the feature of quality picture mounts.

Set up the system on a firm worksurface.
Lay out the yellow non-slip mat to keep your work in place.
Place the SprintMat on top of the non-slip mat




Using the SprintMat is essential when bevel cutting as the blade must cut into a supportive substrate to achieve a clean, accurate bevel cut.





Place the marked up mount face down on top of the SprintMat.
Insert the Mount Stop into the back of the Guide Rail at a comfortable cutting position, taking into account the size of the mount. Use the screwdriver to slacken the screw, unlock the cam, slide it to the best position and then re-tighten.

Place the Guide Rail on top of the mount, carefully drawing it towards you until the Mount Stop connects with the top of the mount, aligning the pencil line with the cutting edge of the Guide Rail.

Place the bevel cutter onto the Guide Rail and insert the two Cutter Stops. Before
cutting, line up the centre of the V with the finish line and lock the top stop; slide the
cutter back and line up the centre of the V with the start line and lock the bottom stop.




The cutter stop is set by positioning the centre of the V on the intersecting line and then locking it in position.





Support the Guide Rail with one hand. With the other hand keep the Bevel Cutter held firmly up against the bottom stop, place the palm so that it covers the top of the cutter and use the heel to rotate the blade fully into the mountboard and then push the cutter along to the other stop in one smooth action.




ensure the SprintMat always supports both the cutter and the rail






Manually retract the blade fully and take the cutter off the Guide Rail. The cutter stops of course remain set for the opposite long side (if cutting a rectangle and for the other three sides if cutting a square mount). Turn the mount around, check the pencil line against the Guide Rail and repeat the cut. Reset the bottom stop and repeat for the shorter sides if cutting a rectangular mount.

In just a few minutes you will have produced a professional quality mount that will set off any photograph, painting or picture.

                                    

Helpful Hints when bevel cutting:

1. When bevel cutting a cutting substrate is essential otherwise the mount’s surface paper will tear leaving a ragged edge. The cutting substrate for bevel cutting has in the past been a spare piece of mountboard – used by default, not by design. Mountboard is not the solution as the core is a random criss-cross of fibres which cause drag, resistance and distortion when bevel cutting; its surface is not flat so does not provide full support for the cutting line. The specifically designed SprintMat has all its fibres in the same direction as the cutting line and its especially laminated surface gives superb support - providing the perfect substrate for the blade to cut into – makes for cleaner more precise bevel edge windows with minimal effort.
2. Typically the blade depth is approximately 3mm for standard thickness mountboard. However, you may need to make adjustments for different thicknesses; Conservation quality mountboard for example is slightly thicker. If you are over or under-cutting the corners this indicates the blade depth needs adjusting. For over-cutting (when a cut is showing beyond the corner on the front) turn the blade depth screw clockwise to reduce the cutting depth; for under-cutting (corner not releasing) turn the screw anti-clockwise to increase the cutting depth.
3. If you have a problem adjusting the cutting depth, it is easier to start with the blade depth set too shallow and then adjust it by very small increments until the corner drops out perfectly.
4. To begin with, try an equal sided mount. It is the mount that guides the eye into the action of the image, so wide borders are usually more effective than narrow, ribbon-like ones.
5. If the mount is to be fixed flat to the wall, whether in a frame or not, make the border the same width all around. But, if the picture is to be hung with a hook, the picture will tilt slightly so increase the bottom border width a little so that you overcome the illusion of a shorter looking bottom border – this is known as a dropped border.

 

Longridge Mountcutters are different
use one once and you'll wonder why all mountcutting systems aren't made this way.

Longridge, Shetlands House, Northclose Road, Bembridge, Isle of Wight, PO35 5XP England
Tel: +44 (0)1983 874121


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