How to Cut a Bevelled Edge Window Mount using a Trio System
Initial
tips before starting:
1.
Mount Cutters should always be placed on a strong firm work
surface and be at a comfortable working height. If the System
is used on a bendy trestle table for example, the table will
flex as you cut and so the System will flex with it. The result
will be a bowed cut. 2. Place the System at right angles
in front of you – not across you. Your arm and shoulder should
line up with the cutting edge so that each cut is one smooth
movement of the upper body. Your position should be slightly
to one side of the System, not with the System in the middle
of your body. 3. Always work on the back of the
mountboard – whether marking out or cutting with either the
Vertical or Bevel Cutter. Always insert the mountboard underneath
the Guide Rail from the cutter side.
To Cut the Mountboard Sheet Down to Size
Set up the system on a firm work surface and remove
the Trio Guide Rail. Take out the Cutter Stops, turn the Trio Guide
Rail over, remove the Mount Stop by slackening the screw with the
screwdriver and then unlock the cam. Now replace the Trio Guide
Rail, set the parallelogram to maximum and insert the sheet of mountboard
face down under the Trio Guide Rail and up to the Squaring Pins.
Measure out the correct size using the tape measure. Remove the
Safety Guard, hook the Vertical Cutter onto the Guide Rail and push
away from you in one smooth action.
Be positive – don’t hesitate, otherwise the blade may flex resulting
in a curve at the end.
The blade is very sharp so always remember to replace the Safety
Guard after each cut.
The groove in the Base accommodates the blade of the
Vertical Cutter as it cuts. It is only for use with the Vertical
Cutter – not the Bevel Cutter.
To Mark Out and Cut the Bevelled Edge Window
The Bevel Cutter is used to produce the pleasing angled
cuts which are the feature of quality picture mounts.
Set the parallelogram to the border width required using the narrow
scale for borders up to 70mm or the wider scale for borders up to
130mm.
Using the narrow scale
Insert the Mount Stop into the back of the Trio Guide
Rail at a comfortable cutting position, taking into account the
size of the mount, but set the Mount Stop so that it does not interfere
with the Z shaped plate. Place the Trio Guide Rail onto the Base.
Slide the SprintMat under the Guide Rail, across the whole Base
and up to the Squaring Pins.
Using the SprintMat is essential when bevel cutting as the blade
must cut into a supportive substrate to achieve a clean, accurate
bevel cut.
Slacken the central knob and using the black indicator line on the
Z plate against the short scale, move the Z plate to the required
border measurement and lock the knob.
Now insert the mount blank face down under the Trio Guide Rail,
on top of the SprintMat across to the leading edge of the Z plate
and up to the Mount Stop.
Mark out the four border lines using a pencil against the Trio Guide
Rail edge.
Ahard pencil, say 4H, helps produce the fine lines needed for accurate
cutting.
Place the Bevel Cutter onto the Trio Guide Rail and insert the two
Cutter Stops.Before cutting, line up the centre of the V with the
finish line and lock the top stop; slide the cutter back and line
up the centre of the V with the start line and lock the bottom stop.
The cutter stop is set by positioning the centre of the V on the
intersecting line and then locking it in position.
Place one hand on the Trio Guide Rail for your support and with
the Bevel Cutter held firmly against the bottom stop with the other
hand, place the palm so that it covers the top of the cutter, rotate
the blade fully into the mountboard with the heel of your hand and
then push the cutter to the other stop in one smooth action.
ensure the SprintMat always supports both the rail and cutter
Manually retract the blade fully and take the cutter off the Trio
Guide Rail. The cutter stops of course remain set for the opposite
long side (if cutting a rectangle and for the other three sides
if cutting a square mount). Turn the mount around and repeat the
cut. Reset the bottom stop and repeat for the shorter sides if cutting
a rectangular mount.
In just a few minutes you will have produced a professional quality
mount that will set off any photograph, painting or picture.
Using the wider scale
If you wish to create a border wider
than 70mm, place the SprintMat under the Trio Guide Rail and slide
it across to the leading edge of the Z plate and up to the Squaring
Pins. Insert the mount blank face down on top of the SprintMat but
this time slide it right across to the back of the Z plate and up
to the Mount Stop.
You are now ready to mark out the borders and cut the window aperture
as before.
For larger mounts remove the Mount
Stop and slide the mount blank up to the squaring pins instead
Trio Maxi guide rail
Use both parrellolgrams in tandem for large mounts but only
the parrellolgram nearest to you for smaller sizes.
To Mark Out the Window Border using the Marker Gauge
With the mountboard face down, mark out the window
border in pencil to provide a cutting guide. Set the measurement
of the Marker Gauge to the required width for the border and draw
four lines If you are cutting a dropped border (that is one where
the border at the bottom is wider than at the top and sides), you
will need to adjust the Marker Gauge to mark out the wider border.
place the mountboard on the worksurface just over the edge and keep
the yellow block firmly up against the side of the mountboard when
drawing the line
a hard pencil, say 4H, helps produce the fine lines needed for accurate
cutting.
Helpful Hints when bevel cutting:
1. If you need to
cut several same size mounts with the same borders then mark
up a master copy as a template – do not cut the window aperture.
The template is then used to set up the system without the
need for any pencil lines. 2. To cut the occasional window
aperture that is longer than the system will allow use the
Trio Guide Rail off the base and without the Mount Stop. Cut
the window part way, keep the blade in work and Bevel Cutter
in position, slide the Trio Guide Rail through the cutter
along the mount and then complete the full length of the cut.
This is for the odd occasion only, needs care and a couple
of practice runs to avoid a step in the bevel cut when the
rail is moved along. 3. When bevel cutting a cutting
substrate is essential otherwise the mount’s surface paper
will tear leaving a ragged edge. The cutting substrate for
bevel cutting has in the past been a spare piece of mountboard
– used by default, not by design. Mountboard is not the solution
as the core is a random criss-cross of fibres which cause
drag, resistance and distortion when bevel cutting; its surface
is not flat so does not provide full support for the cutting
line. The specifically designed SprintMat has all its fibres
in the same direction as the cutting line and its especially
laminated surface gives superb support- providing the perfect
substrate for the blade to cut into – makes for cleaner more
precise bevel edge windows with minimal effort 4. Typically the blade depth is approximately
3mm for standard thickness mountboard. However, you may need
to make adjustments for different thicknesses; Conservation
quality mountboard for example is slightly thicker. If you
are over or under-cutting the corners this indicates the blade
depth needs adjusting. For over-cutting (when a cut is showing
beyond the corner on the front) turn the blade depth screw
clockwise to reduce the cutting depth; for under-cutting (corner
not releasing) turn the screw anti-clockwise to increase the
cutting depth. 5. If you have a problem adjusting the cutting
depth, it is easier to start with the blade depth set too
shallow and then adjust it by very small increments until
the corner drops out perfectly. 6. To begin with, try an equal sided mount.
It is the mount that guides the eye into the action of the
image, so wide borders are usually more effective than narrow,
ribbon-like ones. 7. If the mount is to be fixed flat to the
wall, whether in a frame or not, make the border the same
width all around. But, if the picture is to be hung with a
hook, the picture will tilt slightly so increase the bottom
border width a little so that you overcome the illusion of
a shorter looking bottom border – this is known as a dropped
border.
Longridge Mountcutters are different
use one once and you'll wonder why all mountcutting systems aren't made
this way.
Longridge, Shetlands House, Northclose Road,
Bembridge, Isle of Wight, PO35 5XP England
Tel: +44 (0)1983 874121